Ate bagels from Amangela’s for breakfast, repacked our gear, lamented how heavy our packs are with full resupply, took the bus to Highway 18, caught a hitch in about 5 minutes, and back on trail around 12:45. Cruised through the 9 miles, and arrived at our campsite around 4:45. The campsite had a bunch of hikers hanging out who were just taking a break then putting in more miles before stopping for the day. We don’t recognize any of them, so we assume this is some other bubble of hikers and the zero in Big Bear separated us from our last bubble.
Not having to tear down a tent and repack in the morning is so nice. Got brunch at Teddy Bear’s, hopped on the bus to Von’s for our resupply, and then over to Big 5 Sporting Goods to get stove fuel. Sat around the hotel room most of the day, eating snacks. After striking out on getting steaks for dinner, we picked up food from Boneyard Grille and continued with our rest day.
Got up and out of camp by 7. Most of the hiking was downhill so we cruised through the miles pretty quickly. Leapfrogged with Sabrina and James and eventually got a hitch with them at Highway 18. Marie and I rode in the bed of the truck with all of the packs and we all got dropped off at the grocery store. Picked up some food to have in the hotel room and then hit Big Bear Lake Brewing Company for beers and a delicious burger. We took much-needed showers, got laundry done, and picked up pizza for dinner from Village Pizza just a block away. It’s so nice when the towns are small and you don’t have to walk very far to get things.
Ice cold water, right on trailGot a hitch into Big Bear
Got up early enough for some easy hiking in the morning. Most of today’s climb was done in the 11 miles before lunch and we had great weather for it. Not too hot, plenty of shady spots, and a slight breeze. At our water source around mile 4, we ran into FedEx again, along with John and Iron. Our source was a barrel that was catching the water dripping through the roots and dirt above it. Right before lunch, we met Sage who is hiking with an older couple, Frick and Frack, who are YouTubers. We saw them again at Coon Creek Cabin. The cabin was kind of disappointing because it’s run down and the trash can was piled high with trash that was obviously from hikers (tuna packets, ramen, knorr sides, etc.). It was all over the ground around it too, very disappointing to see hikers litter so badly. We ate lunch and saw John and Iron again. Later in the day, we passed Sage, Frick, Frack, and FedEx. Then, before camp, FedEx passed us, and after we had setup camp John and Iron joined us. Everybody is positioning themselves to go into Big Bear tomorrow. Our nero is now a zero, so we should be getting in some good rest before we head for Wrightwood. Short day tomorrow with only about 13 to the highway.
Empty zoo cagesCreepy bone collection outside the zoo
Not the last to leave camp this morning; small victories. Some climbing in the morning, but, even with the early start, it was still kinda hot. We dropped down to the first crossing of Mission Creek and took a break and filled water bottles. Honeybear and Pricepoint joined us after a bit. We would walk the next 9 miles trying to stay on trail. While it’s nice to be near a water source all day, the struggle comes from the trail constantly being lost in washed out parts of dry riverbed or hidden in overgrown vegetation and down trees. We did our best with following cairns, spotting non-descript wooden posts, and following shoe prints, but eventually had to get our phones out a few times to be sure of which path we should follow. Also, going upstream meant climbing all day. More to do tomorrow before we leave the creek. We leapfrogged Honeybear and Pricepoint a couple times throughout the day, ate lunch with them too. We stopped for the day about 3 miles before the rest of the group was headed. We’re planning to nero with them all on Monday in Big Bear. Met a man that goes by FedEx as we setup camp. He said the campsite we were using was packed full of tents four years ago when he hiked. Sounds like there are much fewer hikers around this year, as we expected.
Last ones to leave camp, but we were joined by a girl from Twinsburg. One of her tent poles snapped in the wind last night, which would suck pretty bad. Thankfully, our tent has held up pretty well so far. However, it is on the larger side so we can’t use some of the campsites. Saw another rattlesnake this morning on our way to the I-10 highway crossing. After climbing up and then down a canyon, we reached the Whitewater River crossing, which was full of hikers taking advantage of the cool, running water. Wading, washing clothes, gathering water to drink. It’s awesome getting to use rivers. The wind was going to be an issue though so we eventually left to find a better place to sleep. Camped near Sam, Jim, Sophie, Honeybear, and Pricepoint.
Up and on trail by 6:30, we got water from an ice cold stream. We made up the few miles we had intended to do last night, and then started the descent. All day long we descended Fuller Ridge. It took us about 12 hours, including a 1.5 hour lunch break. The trail drops about 7,500 feet as it winds down from Mt. San Jacinto. We did not choose to go bonus miles today, although Jim, Sophie, and Sam did. We met back up with them at the bottom. There is a water fountain here so there are a lot of tents & hikers around. I think everyone is planning the same 15 mile day tomorrow because it puts us at a river.
Ate snacks in bed for breakfast. Repacked the bounce box and separated out the stuff we were sending home. Checked out of the Idyllwild Inn, hit the post office, grabbed final snacks from Nomad Adventures, and got a reuben at Red Kettle. We tried contacting one of the trail angels that shuttles hikers, but he couldn’t do it. Instead, we got a hitch. Our driver happened to also be the driver for the Idyllwild Shuttle, he was just looking to help us out even when he wasn’t working. Super nice guy. Took us to the trailhead even though it wasn’t on his way. We started the 2.5 miles back up to Saddle Junction with full packs. Ran into Jim, Sophie, Frish, and Sam on the way up and chatted awhile with them at the junction. We pressed on just a few PCT miles and made camp for the night.
In the morning, we went to the post office to get our bounce box, dropped off our disgusting laundry, and then grabbed breakfast. I needed a new water filter so we went to Nomad Adventures to get some replacement gear. For lunch, we hit up the Idyllwild Brewpub for nachos and a giant pretzel (and beers, of course). Did the bulk of our resupply at the market before heading back to the room. Picked up the laundry on our way back and got excited to have clothes that don’t stink anymore. I had packed hair clippers in the bounce box, so I cut my hair. More pizza and salad for dinner. Tomorrow we’ll need to get the remaining food for our resupply, mail out the bounce box, eat breakfast, get a hitch to the trailhead, and then hike back up to the PCT. Town has been nice. Resting our legs, but getting some short walks in periodically throughout the day seems to be helping. Looking forward to hitting the 200 mark this week!
A big day! Got moving around 7:30. Climbed a bunch, climbed some more, ate ramen for lunch under a boulder, scrambled around a boulder, scrambled over downed trees, lots of downclimbing. Left the PCT and took the Devil’s Slide trail 2.5 miles down to the trailhead. We heard someone’s car chirp and thought, “Quick! Maybe they’ll give us a ride!”. We were almost running as we made it down the parking lot to find out. Wyatt and Parker, two guys who had been up climbing the wall above us, had just gotten back to their Suburban and would gladly take us the last 2.5 miles to town. Score! They even gave us ice cold beers while they loaded up all of the gear they had spread out in the parking lot. Two great dudes, for sure. We checked in at Idyllwild Inn, ran to the grocery store while we waited for pizza, and then back to the room to eat and finally sleep.
A chilly start of our dayWe stayed up on these ridges most of the dayPCT marker being swallowed by the tree
A rock slide last year caused this boulder to block the trail. Someone installed a rope to get around, but that has frayed. Regardless, we scrambled around it. The drop to the right is severe. I hate exposure like this, but we made it!We could still hear climbers up there as we got our hitch
After tearing down camp, our first stop was to Paradise Valley Cafe. 5 miles on trail and then another mile to the cafe. Of course, I got the breakfast burrito and a tall glass of OJ. The place was abuzz with hikers milling about, filling water bottles from the spigot out front, eating, thumbing hitches into town, looking homeless, but happy about it. The regular patrons, I’m sure, get a kick out of us. After eating, we walked the mile back to the trail and started what we hoped were easy miles. The forecast had called for colder weather today, and it wasn’t *as* hot as yesterday, but we struggled. The sun beat down just the same, despite the cold winds. We did 8 miles to our water source, which was by far the nastiest looking water we’ve gotten yet. On the way there, one of the guys in the group we’ve been leap-frogging walked quickly by us. He was carrying burgers from the cafe and two of them were for Jim and Sophie, who we had passed a couple miles ago. They said, in passing, they’d see us ahead at Tunnel Spring. This guy didn’t really know where they were, but as I saw him head up the side trail to a different spring, I yelled to him that I think he needs the other side trail (The trail junction lead to two different springs, both side trails are reported to suck. The one we took certainly did.) Nico (from France) was coming up and confirmed that the hikers were, indeed, down at the spring like I thought. Yay! Anyhow, we took a short lunch break at the gross spring, filled our bottles (wretch), and then climbed the 300 feet back up to the trail. Now, we needed to find our campsite. We planned to go another 7, but that wasn’t happening. We cruised along the ridge watching the clouds roll over into the valley and daylight was quickly dying. We found a clearing at a trail junction and decided to call it. Not the best place trail-etiquette-wise, but we were in a pinch not wanting to night-hike the rest of this ridge to find something more suitable. Set up quickly and jumped in. Tomorrow we have a full day of hiking and then town!
At some point last night, we both woke up to the sounds of an animal nearby, but didn’t realize what it was until the skunk smell wafted into our tent. Thankfully, it dissipated fairly quickly. We got up and on trail around 6:45. As usual, the morning has the best temps for hiking. We did 5 to our water source, which was a shallow pool in a tiny stream. We made it work though, and pressed on to lunch, 7 miles. Hunkered under a bush and intermittently napping and eating, we got back on trail around 2:30. Made it to Mary’s Hiker Oasis, which is aptly named. Mary is the most generous host. She cooked us big, healthy burritos, gave us a can of root beer, and a slice of pie with yogurt. Not to mention she has picnic tables under a shade, a hand-washing station, a little free library, free post cards she’ll send out for us, and, best of all, a giant water tank that we can use. Mary does this all for free, wouldn’t even accept a donation. Many thanks to Mary at mile 145.5! The trail angels out here are incredible. We headed back out feeling great and knew we only had to go another mile or so to find a campsite.
Got on trail around 6:45, the cool air on our climb was nice. Did 7 before our first break and that covered the bulk of the climb. Mike’s Place was another 5 miles, and the tank there made it easy to fill up our water bottles. Maxed out with 5 liters, that will have to last me until a cache tomorrow, which is 18 miles away. Another early start tomorrow will be crucial. Lunch was practically on the trail because finding shade at 2pm was not easy. We managed to find an okay spot huddled under a bush. We whisked away 2 hours hoping for cooler temperatures. Around 4:30 we got going again and finished out the last 5 to camp.
Warm again starting at 8:30, last campers to leave the site. Walked through Warner Springs Meadows which are rolling hills with cattle. Had a snack in the shade of a tree beside a creek before heading up to Eagle Rock. Along the way, some cowboy asked if we knew where Eagle Rock was located when we were only about a quarter mile away from it and had been seeing it come closer and closer for the past half mile at least. I pointed at it with my trekking pole and kept walking, but Marie responded, “I think we can figure it out.” Cowboy takes a step back with, “Well, some people don’t.” I guess some hikers are missing some cool sites along the way. Lunch was across the road from the Warner Springs Fire Dept. in the shade of a tree. We ran into Lightfoot when filling our water bottles at the fire dept. She has quite the résumé of athletic achievements not to mention she was hiking the PCT as part of her training for the Bad Water ultramarathon. Before we got back to walking I ran into Forest, who we haven’t seen since we all got off the bus in Campo. Further up the trail we ran into him again right before we made it to our camp site. He seems to be doing fine, which is nice to see. Filtered water for tomorrow, rinsed some clothes, made dinner, and in bed at 9.
On trail at 8, it was already warm. We did a steady 4 and then a quick jaunt down to the 3rd Gate water cache. It’s a whole setup! There are pallets of water jugs and custom-made recycling container and jug crusher. They even have a tip jar. How that doesn’t get stolen is beyond me, but glad to see it full. We walked back up to the trail and hung out for a bit in the shade. I greeted all of the hikers that came through and startled every one of them. To be fair, the brush along the trail can be thick. Walked until 1 when we found a perfect little shade spot so we parked there until 3:30. We are learning to heed the advice of not walking during the hottest parts of the day. It was nice sitting there, taking a siesta, eating some lunch, watching hummingbirds come and go. We started walking with the intention of stopping 2 miles short of Barrel Springs, but decided to press on to it so we could camp at a water source. Met another Jake at the campsite (trailname: Pacemaker). He was trying to return some sunglasses, but wasn’t having any luck finding their owner. Chatted with him a bit while we filtered water at the spring. Hearing lots of mice and bullfrogs tonight, also some horse-owners who seem to be camping or just hanging out at their truck/trailer.
First 100 miles: done.One option for shade…3rd Gate water cache is down this wayMaking our way down to Barrel Spring
Diner didn’t open until 9 and it was 8:30, so we waited by going to Regulars Wanted again so Marie could get some coffee. Packed up and checked out of the B&B. Breakfast at diner (again, a PCT discount) and then got a ride from Rayngel back to Scissors Crossing. Hung out under the bridge for a bit chatting with Matt from NC. Hiked through a small bit of rain, lots of wind, and in camp early for a short, easy day.
First zero day! Cold, windy, rainy day. Glad we’re not on trail, but still feel like we should be putting in miles. Feet are our priority though. Got Marie some new shoes at 2 Foot Adventures. Picked up resupply food there too. For such a small space they have a ton of stuff. Mom’s Pies gave us a free slice (apple flaky for me, apple cherry crumble for Marie, both with whipped cream). Ate at the diner for breakfast. Free cider at the Cider Mill, as well as a couple bags of candy. Julian loves PCT hikers! Went back to the Julian Beer Company for one last round. Then back to the room to stretch, roll, tape, shower, and rest.
The bus from El Cajon dropped us off around 1:30 and we walked the first mile of the trail southbound to get to the terminus. Took some pictures and then started at 2:15, met Legend, Brian(?), and Mush at “PCT basecamp” down hill from the monument. Stopped for some food at 4:15, dinner in camp at 7:15, in tent at 8:15.
Southern terminus with the border wall/fence to the left
Day 2:
11 miles
Up at 7, slack-packed half a mile to a small pond for water, walked half mile back to tent, broke camp, started around 8:15. Stopped for lunch at 12:15 beside Houser Creek, started climb at 1:40, trail magic (mmm, ice cold natty light) from Magic Man around 4? at Lake Morena. Set up tent in the designated PCT area, walked up the road to the malt shop for food and a beer and then walked back to camp to eat. Talked with a dude from Missouri, hobo shower in the campground bathroom sink, then bed at 8:30 with light rain.
Lunch next to Hauser CreekClimbing up from HauserPCT area at Lake Morena. Lots of tents in one spot = lots of snoring
Day 3:
13 miles
Rained most of the night, woke up at 6:30(?), laid in tent for awhile, slow tear down, walking at 9:15, lunch at 11:45 with Mush at Boulder Oak CG, walking again at 1, Cibbets Flat CG at 4:45(?), ate dinner then got in tent. Figured out how many days of food we would need before our resupply in Julian. Mt Laguna tomorrow. Planning on 3 days to Julian and maybe neroing.
Day 4:
13 miles
Another slow start, which made the 9 miles to Mt. Laguna very hot. Left at 9:30, lunch at 2?. Hit the general store for extra food to get to Julian and some Gatorade, filled water at Burnt Rancheria CG, back on trail around 4. To camp site around 6. Bed at 9:30. Planning to push a 20 tomorrow so we can get to Julian a day early and take a zero. Will decide at lunch if we still want to make the push. Water carries becoming tricky. Hoping to start earlier tomorrow to avoid some of the heat and get the miles in.
Great views towards the end of the day
Day 5:
22 miles
Started at 7:15. Did 6 miles to our water source while the temperature was still cool in the morning, then another 5 to lunch in the sparse shade of a bush next to a dry streambed. The next 9 miles were fine, but energy waned toward the end as we approached our target campsite. There were already hikers here and the only remaining spots available were garbage, so we pressed on. We went another 2.4 where we were the first ones to a sweet campsite. We picked the flattest, softest, most wind-protected spot. Not ten minutes later another hiker shows up (James, with the ice axe) and asks to cowboy camp next to us. In bed before it was even dark. Oof, 22.4, our first official 20+ mile day. This leaves us a 2.2 mile detour for water tomorrow, then 10 miles to highway 78 to pick up a hitch into Julian. We’re looking to zero Monday to avoid a storm and let our feet heal.
Making progressGoofing around as the sun setsHome for the night after a big day
Day 6:
10 miles
Tore down camp, walked down to get water, and then started hiking around 8. Made it to the road around noon. Magic Man was there with more trail magic, what a great guy. The second car that passed picked us up, so only about 10 seconds with our thumbs out to get a hitch. Our affable driver, Juan, dropped off us off in Julian where we hobbled over to the B&B. Couldn’t check in yet, so we dropped our bags and went to Julian Beer Company for lunch and a few rounds. Grabbed snacks and ran into Tuna and James (ice axe dude) who had just bought a tent. Went to the B&B, ordered pizza for dinner from Romano’s, which was just across the parking lot. Started washing our clothes with the provided bucket and cup of detergent. Ate til we were full and then crashed hard.
Lots of different types of cacti along the trail and some are flowering!Heading to the highway to hitch into Julian
We start tomorrow! The anxiety and excitement is high right now, but we’re ready to get going.
The planning for this trip started almost two years ago. We made the first real step back in December 2019 when we tried to get permits. We didn’t get the start date we wanted, but tried again in January 2020 and got decent start dates. Marie quit her job, I almost quit mine, but the pandemic derailed all of the plans we made and we didn’t hike in 2020. So we waited a year, and tried again. Luckily, we got favorable positions in the queue and were able to snag permits for the start date we wanted (tomorrow, 04/20).
We had a couple phones and laptops logged in trying to get a good spot in line before the 50-permits-per-day were gone
With permits secured, we then needed to get all of our gear selected. Most of it was things we already owned, but with a year of waiting before we could start we had plenty of time to find lighter/better options. We tried new packs, tents, clothes, sleeping pads, quilts, etc. All of it was weighed, organized, packed and re-packed. The full list of what I’m starting with is here, if you’re curious.
We still needed to get our lives in order, which, again, we had some great luck. Anna, Marie’s sister, took over watching our apartment for us. My parents are storing my car for me. And, sadly, we had to quit our jobs. Not an easy or quick decision after working for Northwoods for over 15 years. Much love for my coworkers.
But then…we need to get to the trailhead. We left Denver on the 7th, stopped for the night in Topeka, and then continued on to Ohio. A brief stop in Columbus to drop off my laptop with Noah, and then North to Tiffin. Got to spend some time with my family for a couple days, then Marie’s family for a couple days, and then we hit the road.
Leaving on the 14th, we drove to Mammoth Cave National Park. A quick tour of the cave, and then on to Memphis for the night. In the morning, we were treated to breakfast by Marie’s friend, Angie. Drove to Hot Springs National Park, had a couple beers at the brewery, and then continued on to Abilene. Had to switch hotels after finding dog shit behind the chair in our room. I wish I was making that up. After crossing Texas, we found Carlsbad Caverns National Park to be incredible, and Guadalupe Mountains National Park was alright. El Paso was home for the night, and in the morning we headed to Saguaro NP. The cacti were amazing, and we only had a short drive to Phoenix to our hotel. The last day of national parks ended with Joshua Tree, and we were a little underwhelmed at first, but once we got further into the park and saw the huge swaths of trees and piles of boulders, we warmed up to it. We stayed in Indio last night, avoided being murdered when we drove by the Salton Sea in the morning, and finally got to San Diego this afternoon. Six parks, and about 2,700 miles of driving. Oddly enough, that’s about the same amount of miles we’ll be walking.
Entrance to Mammoth CaveFilling up at Hot SpringsTouring Carlsbad CavernsThe namesake saguaro cactusNot the same tree from the U2 album
PCT Hike 